A calotte — also widely known in the trade as a bead tip — is a small, hinged metal finding used in pearl and bead necklace construction to conceal and protect the terminal knot or crimp at each end of a strung strand. Its two cupped halves close together like a clamshell around the knot, presenting a smooth, rounded exterior in place of raw thread, while an integral loop or hook extends outward to connect directly to the clasp. The calotte thus serves a dual purpose: it is simultaneously a structural component, shielding the thread from abrasion at the point of greatest stress, and a finishing element that gives professional necklace work its characteristically neat terminus.

Construction and dimensions

Calottes are typically manufactured in diameters ranging from approximately 3 mm to 5 mm, sized to suit the gauge of the strand and the diameter of the beads being used. They are produced in precious metals — yellow gold, white gold, and sterling silver being the most common — as well as in gold-filled and base-metal alloys for more economical applications. The attached loop may be formed as a simple open ring, a hook, or occasionally a soldered closed ring depending on the clasp system intended. The interior of the two halves is smooth and rounded to avoid cutting the thread when the finding is closed.

Use in stringing

Correct application of a calotte requires that the thread — typically silk, nylon, or a synthetic equivalent — be terminated with either a secure overhand knot or a compressed crimp bead before the finding is closed. The knot or crimp sits within the cupped interior; the two halves are then pressed together with flat-nosed pliers, trapping the terminal securely. The loop is subsequently attached to the clasp ring. When properly executed, the finished junction shows only the smooth metal shell and the clasp connection, with no thread visible. This technique is standard practice in pearl necklace construction, where the aesthetic expectation is one of uninterrupted elegance from bead to clasp.

Calotte versus crimp tube

The calotte is frequently compared with — and sometimes confused with — the crimp tube or crimp bead, which is a related but distinct finding. A crimp tube is deformed directly onto the stringing wire or thread to anchor it mechanically, and may be left exposed or covered with a separate crimp cover. The calotte, by contrast, is designed to enclose an existing knot or crimp within its shell, functioning as a cover and connector in a single component. In beading on flexible wire (such as beading wire or tiger tail), crimp tubes are the more common terminal finding; in traditional silk-strung pearl necklaces, the calotte remains the preferred choice because it accommodates the bulkier knot that silk stringing demands and presents a more refined finish consistent with the material.

In the trade

Calottes are a standard catalogue item at jewellery findings suppliers and are specified by metal, finish, and interior diameter. When sourcing for fine pearl work, jewellers typically select gold or gold-filled calottes whose loop gauge is compatible with the clasp's jump ring, ensuring that the connection does not become a weak point in the assembly. The finding's modest size belies its importance: a poorly closed or incorrectly sized calotte is one of the more common causes of strand failure at the clasp end, making correct selection and technique a matter of practical significance beyond mere aesthetics.