What it is

Indented bearding is a clarity feature in faceted diamonds in which the small hair-like fractures along the girdle, called bearding or girdle fringes, have progressed beneath the surface to create an indented region. Bearding itself is a relatively common cutting artefact, caused by the bruting wheel during the rounding of the rough; indented bearding is the more developed condition where the fractures have continued to extend with handling or with thermal stress, producing a visible inward depression along the girdle.

Causes

The principal cause is mechanical stress during cutting, particularly at the bruting stage when the rough is rounded against another diamond on the bruting machine. The bruting introduces small surface fractures along the girdle. If the cutting subsequently proceeds without polishing the girdle to remove these fractures, they remain in the finished stone. Subsequent handling, thermal stress (such as setting heat or ultrasonic cleaning), or impact can cause the fractures to extend, producing the indented bearding feature.

Identification

Indented bearding is visible under 10x magnification as a series of fine, hair-like fractures extending into the body of the stone from the girdle, with an associated depression or indentation along the affected girdle area. The depression distinguishes indented bearding from simple bearding, which lies entirely along the girdle surface without extending inward.

Clarity grading impact

Indented bearding affects clarity grade based on its visibility, depth and extent. Minor indented bearding may not affect the grade beyond a slight reduction; significant indented bearding can reduce the clarity grade by one or more steps. The feature is plotted on a GIA clarity report using standard inclusion symbols and is described in the comments section as indented bearding.

Implications for setting

Indented bearding can compromise the structural integrity of the girdle and can extend further under setting stress or during everyday wear. Setters should be aware of the feature when working a stone with indented bearding, particularly when using prong settings that grip the girdle. Bezel and partial-bezel settings reduce the stress on the affected area and are preferred for stones with significant indented bearding.