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J.E. Caldwell & Co.

J.E. Caldwell & Co.

Philadelphia's pre-eminent jeweller from 1839 to 2003

Famous jewellers & jewellery housesView in dictionary · 545 words

J.E. Caldwell & Co. was, for the better part of two centuries, the leading Philadelphia jeweller and one of the small group of American houses — Tiffany, Black Starr & Frost, Bailey Banks & Biddle, Shreve Crump & Low, Caldwell — that defined the high end of the United States retail trade between the Civil War and the Second World War. The firm closed its retail operation in 2003 after 164 years of continuous trading.

Foundation and early years

James Emott Caldwell, born in New Jersey in 1813, served his apprenticeship in New York and opened his first store in Philadelphia in 1839 in partnership with James M. Bennett. After Bennett withdrew, Caldwell traded under his own name from 1843 and incorporated as J.E. Caldwell & Co. in 1848. The firm moved between several Chestnut Street and Walnut Street addresses during the nineteenth century, settling at 902 Chestnut in 1916 in a Beaux-Arts building by Horace Trumbauer that remained the flagship until 2003.

Business model

From the outset Caldwell was both a manufacturing and retail house, producing silver hollowware, presentation pieces, watches and fine jewellery in its own workshops while also importing high-end European goods, particularly from Switzerland (watches), Paris and London. The firm was the original North American agent for Patek Philippe from the late 1850s and held that agency continuously until the firm's closure. Caldwell's own clock and watch movement work, often signed "J.E. Caldwell & Co. Philadelphia" on the dial with a Patek, Vacheron or Audemars Piguet movement inside, is collectible in its own right.

Notable commissions

The firm produced presentation silver for state occasions including the swords of honour for several American Civil War generals, the gold service for the United States cruiser USS Pennsylvania (1905), and trophy pieces for the Philadelphia Orchestra. Jewellery commissions for the Philadelphia old families — Biddle, Cadwalader, Wanamaker, Drexel, Stotesbury — form the bulk of the named-provenance Caldwell pieces in the secondary market today. The Edwardian and early Art Deco platinum and diamond work of the 1905 to 1930 period is generally considered the firm's strongest output and is the most actively traded segment at auction.

Twentieth century and decline

The firm passed through several ownership changes after the death of the last family principal in the 1930s. It was acquired by Carlyle & Co. of Greensboro, North Carolina, in the 1990s, and Carlyle in turn was bought by Finlay Enterprises in 2005. The flagship store at 902 Chestnut closed in early 2003, ending continuous Caldwell retail trading; the brand name was held briefly by Finlay before being effectively dormant after the Finlay Chapter 11 in 2009. A group of Philadelphia investors revived the name as a small online operation in the 2010s, but the original house ended in 2003.

Hallmarks and identification

Caldwell pieces are marked variously "J.E. Caldwell & Co.", "JECo", "J.E. Caldwell", or simply "Caldwell", often with "Philadelphia" beneath, and frequently with the standard US sterling or 10K/14K/18K mark. Pre-1900 silver may carry the lion-and-eagle pseudo-hallmark in addition to the firm's name. Auction-house attribution to Caldwell is generally based on the marked signature and supporting period documentation; Caldwell did not issue serial numbers in the manner of Tiffany or Cartier.