Lalique Bayadere
Lalique Bayadere
An Art Nouveau theme of the Indian dancer in glass and jewellery
The 'Bayadere' is a recurring theme in the work of Rene Lalique (1860-1945), referencing the Indian temple dancer (the term entering European usage from Portuguese 'balhadeira' through French in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries). The Bayadere theme appears in several of Lalique's jewellery and glass pieces, particularly in the period from approximately 1910 onwards, when the orientalist current in French decorative arts was strong, partly under the influence of the Ballets Russes (founded by Diaghilev in 1909) and the broader European fascination with India and the Indian dance tradition. Lalique's Bayadere pieces should be understood within this orientalist context as a stylised European reading of the South Asian dancer figure rather than as an attempt at literal representation.
Sources of the theme
The Indian temple dancer, known variously as the devadasi (in temple service) or the bayadere (in European literature), had been a subject of European interest since at least the eighteenth-century French mission accounts of southern India. The theme entered European decorative arts through several channels: the 1830 ballet 'La Bayadere' by Filippo Taglioni; the 1877 Marius Petipa ballet of the same name, a staple of the Russian Imperial repertoire that became internationally known through the Ballets Russes; literary works by Theophile Gautier and others; and the broader orientalist tradition that informed French decorative arts from the mid-nineteenth century. By the early twentieth century the bayadere had become a familiar trope in fashion and decorative arts, often associated with sinuous form, rich colour, and exotic ornamentation.
Lalique's interpretations
Lalique's Bayadere appears principally in two registers within his output. In the Art Nouveau period he produced jewellery (pendants, brooches, hair ornaments) incorporating dancer figures with the characteristic flowing forms and integrated natural-element motifs of his mature Art Nouveau idiom: a female figure in dancing pose, often with hair becoming or merging with vegetative forms, executed in gold, plique-a-jour enamel, ivory, opal or moonstone. In the later period of his career, after the shift to glass production from approximately 1909-1910, he produced glass pieces with Bayadere-related themes, including some of the celebrated frosted-glass female-figure motifs that recurred in his vases, perfume bottles and architectural panels of the 1920s and 1930s.
Specific known pieces
Among the most-cited Lalique pieces in the Bayadere theme are several brooches and pendants from approximately 1900 to 1910 that show female dancing figures in characteristic Lalique materials and technique, and a number of glass pieces from the post-1910 period (vases, perfume bottles, architectural elements) that incorporate stylised dancer figures. The specific designations of pieces as 'Bayadere' versus generic 'female-figure' Lalique works are sometimes subject to debate among specialists; the broader category of orientalist female figures is well-documented but the precise identification of any single piece as a Bayadere depends on the specifics of dress, pose and context.
Technical execution
The Art Nouveau-period jewellery interpretations are executed in the standard Lalique technical vocabulary of the period: gold repousse, plique-a-jour enamel, ivory or horn carving for the figure body, and pearl or coloured-stone accents. The post-1910 glass interpretations use the developing techniques of the Combs-la-Ville and Wingen-sur-Moder works, including frosted and clear glass, surface modelling in mould, and the characteristic Lalique treatment of light and translucency. The two technical traditions are quite different in execution but share a common design vocabulary in which the dancer figure is integrated into a stylised compositional whole.
Position within Lalique's output
The Bayadere theme is not as central to the Lalique output as the dragonfly, the peacock, or the various floral motifs (mistletoe, ivy, fern), but it represents an important strand within his orientalist work and within the broader female-figure category that runs through both his jewellery and his glass production. For the collector and historian, Bayadere-themed pieces are notable for their integration of the South Asian dancer reference into the Lalique idiom and for their participation in the wider orientalist current of pre- and post-Great War French decorative arts.
Auction and market
Authentic Rene Lalique Bayadere-themed pieces, like all original Lalique jewellery from the 1895-1910 period, appear principally through the major European and American auction houses (Christie's, Sotheby's, Osenat, Tajan) and through specialist Art Nouveau dealers. Their identification requires careful attention to documentation, since the orientalist female-figure category includes a range of related works that may be confused. The Calouste Gulbenkian Museum in Lisbon and the Musee Lalique at Wingen-sur-Moder are the principal museum collections holding examples of the Bayadere and related themes from across Lalique's career.