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Lalique Pansy

Lalique Pansy

A floral motif of the Art Nouveau idiom in jewellery and glass

Famous jewellers & jewellery housesView in dictionary · 800 words

The pansy is one of the recurring floral motifs in the work of Rene Lalique (1860-1945) during his Art Nouveau career, and the form persists into his subsequent glass production. The plant, with its distinctively shaped flower of overlapping petals and its rich palette running from white through yellow, mauve, deep purple and near-black, lent itself particularly well to the plique-a-jour enamel work for which Lalique was best known, and pansy-themed pieces appear in pendants, brooches, hair ornaments, and combs from the 1895-1910 period. After the firm's shift to glass production from approximately 1909-1910, pansy motifs continued in a number of vase, bowl and architectural-glass forms.

The pansy in decorative arts

The pansy (Viola tricolor and the cultivated Viola wittrockiana) was a favourite subject in nineteenth-century decorative arts well before Lalique. The flower's heart-shape, the velvet texture of its petals, and the symbolic associations attached to it (fidelity, thoughtful remembrance, in the language of flowers) made it a particularly resonant subject. By the late nineteenth century the pansy was a stock motif in jewellery, embroidery, ceramics, and fine art across Europe and North America. Lalique's interpretation, while drawing on this established vocabulary, distinguished itself by the technical seriousness of the plique-a-jour work and by the integration of the flower into compositions that often combined botanical with figural or animal elements.

Technical work

The principal technical contribution of Lalique's pansy pieces is the use of plique-a-jour enamel to render the petals. The translucent enamel, held in cells of metal without backing, allowed the colour gradations and the velvet quality of the pansy's petals to be captured with a fidelity that no other technique of the period could match. The enamellists of the Lalique workshop, principally Tourrette and his colleagues, achieved progressively finer cell sizes and more controlled colour transitions through the late 1890s and into the 1900s. The pansy form is particularly demanding of plique-a-jour technique because the dark central markings (the 'face' of the pansy) require sharp colour transitions within a small area, and successful pansy pieces are diagnostic of the workshop at its most accomplished.

Materials and composition

The Lalique pansy pieces typically combine plique-a-jour enamel petals with gold repousse and chasing for the stem and foliage, with diamond or pearl accents at the centre or as dewdrops. Some pieces incorporate cabochon coloured stones (sapphire, garnet, amethyst, peridot) as accent points within the floral composition. The compositions are most often a single bloom or a small cluster, sometimes integrated into a larger Art Nouveau composition with female figures or other natural elements, sometimes presented as a more straightforward floral pendant or brooch. The pieces are generally of moderate scale, suitable for daily wear.

Position within Lalique's botanical work

The pansy sits within Lalique's broader engagement with floral subjects from northern European gardens and meadows, alongside the lily-of-the-valley, the iris, the chrysanthemum, the orchid, the poppy, the violet, and the various fern, ivy and mistletoe motifs already discussed in connection with the firm's wider design programme. Among these, the pansy is distinctive for its colour content, with the deep purples and yellows providing scope for the plique-a-jour work that other floral motifs of more uniform colour did not. The pansy is therefore among the most technically ambitious of the Lalique botanical pieces.

Glass continuation

After the firm's shift to glass production, pansy motifs continued in moulded glass forms, including vases, bowls, perfume bottles and architectural elements. The glass pansy work, executed at Combs-la-Ville from 1909 and at Wingen-sur-Moder from 1921, retains the floral form but expresses it through the very different medium of frosted and clear glass rather than enamel. The continuity of subject across the two principal phases of Lalique's career (jewellery to glass) is characteristic of the firm's design programme, in which a coherent vocabulary of natural motifs persists across the change of medium.

Auction and collecting

Original Lalique pansy jewellery from the Art Nouveau period appears at auction periodically through the major European and American houses, with pricing reflecting the condition of the plique-a-jour enamel (which is fragile and susceptible to damage), the scale of the piece, and the integration of the design. Glass Lalique pansy pieces are more abundant and less expensive, ranging from the 1920s production through the contemporary firm's reissues. The two markets are distinct and informed buyers separate them clearly. For the contemporary collector the pansy is one of the readily identifiable Lalique motifs, both in the jewellery and the glass output, and it provides a useful entry point into the firm's broader botanical work.