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Magnificent Jewels at Sotheby's

Magnificent Jewels at Sotheby's

The Geneva, Hong Kong and New York flagship that has reset records for fancy-coloured diamonds and natural pearls

Legend, lore & famous stonesView in dictionary · 745 words

Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels and Noble Jewels is the house's senior auction series for important jewellery and singular gemstones. Held twice yearly in Geneva (May and November), Hong Kong (April and October) and New York (April or June and December), the series traces its modern shape to the 1970s under the late David Bennett, who chaired the international jewellery department for over four decades and built the Geneva spring and autumn rotation into a calendar event for the global trade.

Geneva, Hong Kong and New York

The Geneva sale at the Mandarin Oriental Hotel is the principal session, traditionally held within forty-eight hours of Christie's competing auction across the lake. Hong Kong's Magnificent Jewels and Jadeite reflects the Asian collector base's preference for Burmese ruby, Kashmir sapphire, jadeite of imperial colour and historically important natural pearls. New York leans toward signed Art Deco jewellery and large fancy-coloured diamonds. Pre-sale viewings rotate between Hong Kong, New York, London, Dubai, Tokyo, Singapore and Geneva, often spanning six to eight weeks before a headline lot reaches the rostrum.

Landmark results

Several Sotheby's Magnificent Jewels sales have produced figures that re-set the trade's understanding of what a stone could fetch. The CTF Pink Star, a 59.60 ct fancy vivid pink internally flawless cushion, sold in Hong Kong on 4 April 2017 for HKD 553 million (USD 71.2 million), the standing world record for any gemstone at auction. The Graff Pink, a 24.78 ct fancy intense pink emerald-cut, made USD 46.16 million in Geneva in November 2010. The Blue Moon of Josephine, a 12.03 ct fancy vivid blue cushion, achieved CHF 48.6 million (USD 48.5 million) in Geneva in November 2015, the per-carat record for any diamond at the time.

Among coloured stones, the Jewel of Kashmir, an 27.68 ct Kashmir sapphire, reached HKD 53.4 million (USD 6.74 million) in Hong Kong in October 2015, then the per-carat record for sapphire at auction. The Hutton-Mdivani Jadeite Necklace, twenty-seven imperial-jadeite beads with a Cartier clasp, made HKD 214 million (USD 27.4 million) in Hong Kong in April 2014, the per-bead record for jadeite. La Peregrina, the historic pear-shaped natural pearl from the collection of Elizabeth Taylor, sold within Sotheby's New York rotation that house held jointly with Christie's in December 2011 for USD 11.8 million.

Single-owner and noble collections

Sotheby's tradition of single-owner sales has run alongside the regular calendar. The Royal Jewels from the Bourbon-Parma Family in November 2018 in Geneva totalled CHF 53.2 million across 100 lots, including a pearl pendant historically associated with Marie Antoinette. The Heidi Horten Collection in May 2023 reached USD 202 million across 700 lots, the most valuable jewellery collection sold at auction at the time. These named-collection sales bring documented provenance, contemporaneous photography and archival research, all of which is reflected in the house's catalogue notes and in the prices realised.

Cataloguing and laboratory reports

Lots are catalogued with reports from GIA, the Swiss Gemmological Institute (SSEF), Gübelin and AGL. For ruby and sapphire, the heat treatment status is footnoted; for emerald, the clarity-enhancement classification (none, minor, moderate) is disclosed; for jadeite, the natural classification (Type A) is verified by Hong Kong laboratories; and for fancy-colour diamonds, GIA reports with monograph commentary are standard for headline lots. Sotheby's specialists are typically GIA Graduate Gemologists or holders of Federation for European Education in Gemmology (FEEG) qualifications, with sustained working relationships with the major laboratories.

Reading the results in trade context

For working dealers and serious collectors, the published catalogues are themselves a reference resource. They standardise origin terminology, document treatment to current laboratory norms, and trace the migration of important stones between collections. The footnotes are written by specialists, and the controlled-light photography has become a working colour reference. Two cautions apply. First, results are reported with buyer's premium included, which inflates the hammer-only figure by roughly twenty to twenty-six per cent. Second, headline lots benefit from third-party guarantees and irrevocable bids, which compress visible competition. When using Magnificent Jewels results as comparables, work back to the hammer figure and apply judgment about how much of the premium reflected the specific stone versus competition between two determined bidders.