Marco Bicego Lunaria — Disc-Form Hand-Engraved Gold
Marco Bicego Lunaria — Disc-Form Hand-Engraved Gold
The Vicenza house's collection of overlapping engraved 18-carat gold petals
The Lunaria collection is one of the principal collections of the Marco Bicego jewellery house, characterised by thin, disc-shaped 18-carat gold elements with hand-engraved surfaces, arranged in overlapping petal-like compositions. The collection's name references the lunar appearance of the disc motifs, and the designs include drop earrings, necklaces, and bracelets that emphasise movement and light play through the layered disc structures. Lunaria represents a more delicate aesthetic within the broader Marco Bicego portfolio, complementing the more substantial bead designs of Africa and the woven-wire structures of Goa.
Design vocabulary
The central element of the Lunaria collection is the thin gold disc — a flat circular or near-circular shape, typically 10 to 25 millimetres in diameter, with a surface treated using the firm's signature bulino hand-engraving technique. The discs are assembled in overlapping arrangements that produce the characteristic petal-like compositions, with the layered structure giving the finished pieces both visual depth and physical movement as the discs shift relative to one another.
The collection includes drop earrings featuring single or multiple discs, pendant and statement necklaces with disc clusters, bracelets with disc elements arranged along the band, and rings featuring smaller disc compositions. Some pieces incorporate pavé diamond accents along disc edges or as central elements, while others rely entirely on the gold and engraving for their visual effect. Coloured stone variants extend the range with sapphire, tsavorite garnet, and other accent stones in selected pieces.
The bulino technique on disc surfaces
The bulino hand-engraving technique applied to flat disc surfaces produces a different visual effect from the same technique applied to spherical beads (as in the Africa collection) or to woven wire structures (as in Goa). On flat surfaces, the parallel striations create a directional satin texture that catches light along the engraving direction, with the pattern remaining clearly readable across the larger disc surface. The effect is more architectural and graphic than the softer light play of the spherical Africa beads.
Each disc is individually engraved by hand, contributing to the labour intensity of the collection's production. The collection also features more delicate construction than the Africa beads, with thinner gold sections and joining techniques that preserve the disc geometry while supporting the layered assembly. The combination of hand engraving and assembly produces pieces that carry significant workmanship content beyond the value of the gold itself.
Material and construction
The collection uses 18-carat gold (750 fineness) in yellow, white, and rose colour variants, consistent with the firm's broader practice. The discs are produced in the Vicenza workshop using techniques appropriate to thin-section gold work, with attention to maintaining the planarity and edge quality of each disc through the engraving and assembly process. Joining of discs into the layered compositions uses small concealed connections that preserve the visual continuity of the petal arrangements.
Italian hallmarks — the 750 fineness mark and the Marchio di Identificazione manufacturer code — appear on pieces in accordance with mandatory hallmarking requirements. Diamond and coloured-stone pieces include the appropriate setting marks and stone descriptions per Italian trade convention.
Position within the brand portfolio
The Lunaria collection extends the Marco Bicego brand's design range with a more delicate and graphic aesthetic than the Africa and Goa collections. The disc-based vocabulary supports designs that work effectively as everyday jewellery (smaller earring drops, slim bracelets) as well as statement pieces (multi-disc necklaces and dramatic earrings), giving the collection broad applicability across customer needs and occasions.
Within the brand's overall positioning, Lunaria sits as the lighter and more linear counterpart to the more sculptural Africa designs, complementing the firm's overall offering and supporting retail strategies that present customers with a coherent design vocabulary across multiple stylistic directions. The collection's continued retail success since introduction has supported its position as a core element of the brand's portfolio.
In the trade
For retailers and trade buyers, the Lunaria collection represents one of the brand's most distinctive design vocabularies and supports stocking strategies for customers seeking the brand's hand-worked aesthetic in a more delicate format than the bead-based Africa collection. The disc designs photograph effectively for social-media and editorial contexts, supporting the brand's marketing visibility, and the price points across the collection accommodate both gift and self-purchase markets.