A partial bezel — also called a half bezel, open bezel, or split bezel — is a bezel setting in which the metal rim surrounds only part of the gemstone's girdle, leaving openings on two or more sides where the stone is unsupported by metal. The arrangement is a stylistic and functional alternative to the full bezel, in which the rim encloses the entire girdle, and to prong settings, in which only a few metal claws hold the stone. Partial bezels are commonly used for emerald-cut, cushion-cut, and other step-cut stones where side light improves the appearance, and for design contexts in which the cleaner, more open look is preferred over the heavier full-bezel profile.

Construction

Partial bezels are constructed by fabricating a bezel strip of appropriate height and shape, then cutting away the portions of the strip where the openings are wanted. The remaining bezel sections are soldered to the underlying mounting and the bezel walls are pushed against the stone's girdle to secure it during setting. Common configurations include opposing-sides bezels (metal at the long ends of an emerald cut, openings at the long sides), four-corner bezels (metal at the corners only), and three-segment bezels for round and oval stones.

The structural integrity of a partial bezel depends on adequate metal thickness and on careful planning of the openings to ensure the stone remains securely held. The trade-off compared to a full bezel is that the partial bezel offers less protection against impact and against side-loading.

Visual and optical effects

The principal visual effect of a partial bezel is to admit more light into the sides of the stone, which improves brilliance for step cuts and for stones with deep pavilions where the open sides allow light to enter that the full bezel would obstruct. The reduced visual weight of the metal rim makes the stone appear larger relative to the setting and emphasises the gemstone over the mounting. Cleaning and inspection of the stone are easier with a partial bezel because more of the girdle and pavilion are accessible.

In the trade

Partial bezels are widely used in contemporary jewellery design, particularly for engagement rings and pendants where the buyer wants the security of a bezel without the visual weight. For Skyjems custom work, partial bezels are a routine option that we discuss with clients when bezel-style mountings are under consideration. The construction is straightforward for our bench, and the design flexibility is significant.

Further reading

• GIA — bezel setting reference
• International Gem Society — bezel and partial-bezel construction
• ICA — coloured-stone setting practice