Pavé Punch — The Bench Tool That Shapes Setting Beads
Pavé Punch — The Bench Tool That Shapes Setting Beads
Concave-tipped hand punch used to round the metal beads that secure stones in pavé setting
A pavé punch is the small concave-tipped hand punch used at the bench to form the rounded metal beads that secure each stone in pavé setting. The tool is one of two that does the visible work of pavé — the other being the graver, which raises the metal that the punch will round — and the quality of a pavé surface depends in significant part on the punch's geometry, the punch operator's control, and the match between punch tip diameter and bead size. Punches are sold in graduated sets, typically from about 0.4 mm tip diameter for micro-pavé up to 1.6 mm or larger for production pavé in heavier stones.
Geometry and use
The working tip of a pavé punch is a hemispherical or cup-shaped concavity, machined into a hardened steel rod. In use, the punch is held vertical to the work surface, the cup is placed over a small upright sliver of metal that the graver has previously raised, and the punch is struck with a small bench hammer or pressed with a hand-press. The blow forces the raised metal into the cup, where it consolidates into a smooth, rounded bead that overhangs and grips the edge of the adjacent stone. The size of the cup determines the bead's final dimensions; the depth of the cup determines whether the bead is fully hemispherical or flatter and broader.
In the trade
Pavé punches are essential for traditional bead-set pavé and for the larger of the modern micro-pavé sizes; for the smallest contemporary micro-pavé in stones below approximately 0.005 ct, some setters work entirely with graver and burnisher rather than punching. Production setters keep multiple sets in graduated sizes; the punch is selected per stone diameter to produce uniformly sized beads across a piece. Worn punches with deformed tips produce uneven beads and are routinely replaced or re-machined.
Care
Pavé punches are mechanically robust but the working tip is precision-machined and must be protected. Storage in a dedicated rack or case prevents tip damage from contact with other tools. Tips should be cleaned of any embedded metal residue with a soft brush; abrasive cleaning will round and dull the cup. See also pavé setting, graver.