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Pomellato M'ama Non M'ama

Pomellato M'ama Non M'ama

The Milanese house's romantic, petalled coloured-stone collection

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M'ama Non M'ama — Italian for he loves me, he loves me not — is the Pomellato collection that translates the daisy-petal divination ritual into coloured-stone jewellery. The line features playful, romantic compositions in 18-karat gold, with petalled silhouettes, asymmetric stone arrangements, and a deliberately broad colour vocabulary drawn from the house's stable of semi-precious gemstones. Rings, earrings, and pendants form the core of the collection, all built around the metaphor of the plucked daisy as a sentimental object made wearable.

Design vocabulary

The defining M'ama Non M'ama silhouette is a centre stone surrounded by gold petals, with one or more petals deliberately replaced by an additional coloured stone or set with diamonds. The asymmetry — petals counted in, petals counted out — restages the loves-me-loves-me-not game in metal. Pomellato extends the device through the collection: the same petalled architecture appears in stud earrings, in pendant drops, and in stackable rings that combine across the hand to multiply the floral motif.

Stones used in M'ama Non M'ama include the Pomellato semi-precious palette — amethyst, citrine, peridot, blue topaz, prasiolite, garnet, smoky and pink quartz — set alongside diamonds and, in selected high-end editions, more valuable species. Each stone is cut in the cushion or oval profile that has become a Pomellato cutting signature, with rounded shoulders and substantial pavilion depth that retains saturation in modest carat weights.

Origin within the house

Pomellato was founded in Milan in 1967 and built its reputation on contemporary, ready-to-wear coloured-stone jewellery. M'ama Non M'ama is one of several house collections that combine sculptural goldwork with the brand's stable of semi-precious species — alongside Nudo, Ritratto, and Sabbia. Where Nudo strips ornament back to a single cabochon in a minimal bezel, M'ama Non M'ama works in the opposite direction: ornament, sentiment, and floral metaphor rendered as wearable architecture.

Construction

Settings are 18-karat gold in rose, yellow, or white tonalities, with rose dominating the collection's commercial output in keeping with broader Pomellato house preference. Stones are bezel- or claw-set into the petal seats, with the inner silhouette of each petal milled to receive the corresponding stone profile. Diamonds, where present, are typically D–F colour and VS clarity. The inner arc of each petal is finished as a polished bevel that catches light and frames the stone above.

In the trade

M'ama Non M'ama is one of Pomellato's longer-running collections and pieces in the secondary market are routinely encountered. As with all coloured-stone Pomellato, condition of the cabochon or faceted centre stone is the first concern: amethyst, peridot, and topaz are softer than the supporting metalwork and can show abrasions on the table or chip at the girdle after years of ring wear. Replacement stones cut to Pomellato's proprietary profiles are best sourced through the house workshop, and an undocumented re-cut by a non-specialist will visibly compromise the intended optic.

For client wardrobes, M'ama Non M'ama is most often the introductory or sentimental piece — an engagement-adjacent ring, an anniversary token, or a layered stack assembled across a series of occasions. The collection's expressive vocabulary works best when the wearer is comfortable with the floral language; for a more restrained client, the house's other lines may suit better.

Care

Cleaning by mild soap and warm water with a soft brush is appropriate; ultrasonic cleaning should be avoided for amethyst, citrine, peridot, and topaz pieces, all of which can be sensitive to vibration and to thermal shock. Storage in individual pouches prevents the petal edges from marking softer stones in a jewellery box. Routine inspection of the petal seats and prong tips at the workshop is recommended every two to three years on pieces in heavy ring rotation.

Further reading